Our orientation trip began in the southern part of the state of Yucatan, in the community of San Mateo, where we were able to explore the natural resources of the area and learn about a few of the most important trees in the Mayan culture. We also admired historic buildings in the middle of the jungle that are evidence of military bases that were established along the ancient roads of Yucatan after the Caste War.
One of the most fascinating experiences we had was entering into what the ancient Mayans knew as the inframundo, or the underworld. We rappelled down into the cenote of San Mateo, breaking the silence within and sending hundreds of bats circling around the high vaulted ceiling of this massive natural well. It is a unique experience that very few people are lucky enough to see.
In Felipe Carrillo Puerto, a city of Quintana Roo that was the Mayan capital during the Caste Wars from 1847-1901, we learned about working with the native stingless bees and the other diverse bee species that have been kept and used by people in this area since preHispanic times. Our teacher for the day, Manuel, taught us about these small insects known in Mayan as E’jo’ol, Bo’ol, Sak Xiik’, K’antsak and the most well known, Xunáan Kaab, a species that appears in the Madrid Codex, an ancient book written by ancient Mayan people in the postclassic period of Mesoamerica (900-1500 A.D.)
We also experienced the traditional music and dance of the Maya cruzo’ob, or Maya of the cross. This kind of music is known as maya paax and is always played by a particular set of instruments, one stringed instrument and two percussive instruments. Typically a violin, snare drum and bass drum. This kind of music and the dance that accompanies it was created in the midst of the armed conflicts of the Caste War when the Mayan people fought against the economic system that was built on the slavery of indigenous people by the white mestizos that controlled the majority of the land on the peninsula. Today the music and dance of maya paax is an artistic expression of the cultural identity of the cruzo’ob region, where the descendants of rebels and warriors keep these traditions alive.
Another fascinating place that we were able to visit was the community of Kantemó which was full of kind people and delicious food. This pueblo is known for a treasure that it protects in the surrounding forest: the cave of the hanging serpents. The main attraction is entering into the pitch black of the cave to observe the rat snakes (senticolis triaspis) that hang from the ceiling and walls to catch bats in mid-air as they fly out of the cave every evening. We were also able to see other cave-dwelling animals that inhabit a small body of water deep inside the cave such as blind eels and shrimp, aquatic insects and the white lady, a species of blind fish. All of these unique animals have no pigmentation and are perfectly adapted to the permanent darkness of their cave environment. We were also able to clearly observe the history of the limestone rock of the peninsula that was once the ocean floor, as evidenced by the marine fossils encrusted in the walls and ceiling of the natural cave system.
One of the most interesting experiences that we had during our trip was collecting resin from the chicozapote tree in the forests of Quintana Roo. This natural resin is used to make chewing gum and we were able to see first hand how complicated and dangerous the work of a chiclero is. Don Isidro, with 40 years of experience, and his son Victor guided us on a path through the jungle-like forest. We learned about selecting the right tree for extraction, since harvested trees are left to rest for many years before being used again. After a demonstration of the extraction, we learned about the process of cooking down the resin to the right consistency and forming it into blocks that can then be sold. We ended our visit with bowls of atole and pozole, traditional corn-based drinks that chicleros often drink to give them strength for their hard work in the forest.
On our return to the state of Yucatan, we visited the workshop of the traditional potter family Espadas Xooc in the community of Uayma, where the students were able to learn about different materials and traditional techniques passed down through many generations. Virgilio showed us the different types of soil and natural materials harvested right nearby that make up their special blend of clay. Each of our students was able to mold their own creation, using their creativity and skill to manipulate the clay. And as with all the places that we visit, we were able to enjoy another delicious meal!
Not too far from Uayma, we visited one of the most impressive archaeological sites that Yucatan has to offer, Ek Balam. We walked the same paths that ancient Mayans once did and took in the grandeur and importance of this place. It is awesome to admire the architecture and to see the acropolis known as Sak Xok Nah, whose walls once contained the remains of the powerful ruler Ukit Kan Le’t Tok.
As well as visiting the ancient ruins of Ek Balam, we also spent some time in the modern-day community of the same name. The people who live there are descendents of the ancient Mayans and today, combine the old practices of traditional subsistence farming (known as milpa) with modern activities such as ecotourism. We met many interesting people and of course ate more good food, and we also were able to listen to Don Mario, the community leader, recount the history of the community and their participation in restoring the archeological ruins. He also explained how the traditional manner of dividing land, known as ejido, works and how the community ecotourism project U Najil Ek Balam began. We also were able to participate in a workshop of roasting and grinding cacao beans to make chocolate. We learned about the traditions that surround this drink that, since ancient times, has been important in all of the cultures of Mesoamerica. The workshop ended with a hot chocolate tasting complete with pan dulce.
Toward the end of our trip around the peninsula, we visited the community of Rio Lagartos on the northeast coast of Yucatan. There, we took a boat tour through the protected biosphere and learned about the importance of the different kinds of mangrove trees that protect the coastline. We saw many different species of migratory birds that come to nest in this region, as well as endemic species that are essential to the local ecosystem. We were lucky enough to spot large groups of majestic flamingos, different types of ospreys and herons, pelicans, cormorants, gulls, frigate birds and the star of the ecosystem, the crocodile. At the end of our visit, we visited our good friend and amazing cook Doña Zoila who, along with her family, prepared a delicious traditional fish filet lunch called tikin xik loaded with local ingredients and her signature touch.
For the final leg of our journey, and in keeping with protocol that has been established by the Yucatan Program, we settled in for a short quarantine in the cabañas of San Crisanto to guarantee that each student would arrive to their host families in the city of Merida in good health. Here we were able to relax after our whirlwind trip and enjoy the northern beaches of Yucatan, and the students were able to work on writing in their journals and reflecting on what they were living and experiencing during this first stage of their immersion process. COVID tests were taken to assure the status of each student before setting out for Merida, our home base for the next part of the program!
