We began our orientation trip for the College of the Atlantic Yucatan Program on the beautiful eastern coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, in the state of Quintana Roo. We avoided the main tourist hubs of the Riviera while visiting historical sites, influential cities, and small communities that welcomed us in to see how they are working to preserve their environment and maintain cultural practices. Along the way, we met some amazing families, ate delicious food, learned about the history of the peninsula and worked our way closer to our final destination, the city of Merida, capital of the state of Yucatan.
Our journey began on the beaches of the east coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, where we visited one of the most important archeological sites from the Mayan Postclassic period, the ancient city of Zama, better known today as Tulum. This imposing prehispanic settlement is located right in front of the spectacular Mexican-Carribbean sea, which made this a city that controlled maritime commerce and coastal resources, as well as adapting to the diverse ecosystems that are found in the region.
Taking advantage of our visit to Tulum, we entered into the ecological reserve of Sian Ka’an, where we followed a dirt path that was in a state of disrepair due to recent rains, until we arrived at a beautiful beach where the students could go for a dip in the blue waters of the Caribbean sea, far from the noise and chaos of the touristic zone. Finally, still during our first day in the area, we left for the cabins that would be our home for the next four days, located on the outskirts of the small city of Felipe Carrillo Puerto, but not without first eating some delicious panuchos and celebrating student Noah’s birthday in the home of our friends Don Gregorio and Doña Felipa.
Continuing with our adventure along the east coast of the Peninsula, we visited the ancient Mayan city of Chacchobén (place of colored corn). The inhabitants of this majestic prehispanic site knew how to take advantage of the bodies of fresh water that surrounded them, such as the watering holes and lakes that are characteristic of this region. This site was occupied for a long period, stretching from the Preclassic into the Early Classic Mayan period, the era in which this city reached its maximum splendor. Archaeological work shows a partial repopulation through the Late Postclassic period. As well as learning more about architectural styles in this Mayan zone, such as civic, sacred and everyday spaces, we were able to admire the building capabilities of the ancient Mayans and observe the flora and fauna that surrounds this space today.
Later on, we headed toward Síjil Noh Há lake to continue enjoying the natural wonders of Quintana Roo. There, we were not only able to enjoy good food and relax in a place surrounded by nature, but we also were able to walk along a path where we identified some of the important trees in the area, swam in an open cenote that supplies the lake with crystalline waters, tour other areas of the lake in kayak and enjoy the panoramic view from the viewing tower.
After this activity and to mitigate the typical December heat in the Yucatan peninsula, we headed off to enjoy the crystalline waters of the cenote Sayab Kuxtal (spring of life), where we were able to relax and enjoy fresh papaya and, more importantly, recoup energy to continue our journey.
A key part of our travels was to learn about the different historical eras of the region that we are visiting, therefore an important stop was our visit to the Historial Museum of Felipe Carrillo Puerto City. This museum tells the story of the region that's largest settlement was known as Noj Kaaj Santa Cruz Baalam Naj, which is the former name of this important Mayan capital in the era of the Caste War from 1847-1901.
Today, the city of Felipe Carrillo Puerto not only guards its history in museums, but it continues to be lived through the people, which is how we were fortunate enough to witness the music and dance of the Maya cruzo’ob or the Maya of the cross. This style of music is known as maya pax and is unique in that it is always played with one or two string instruments and two percussion instruments, which is to say, one or two violins accompanied by a bass and snare drum. This kind of music and dance was created in the midst of the armed conflicts of the Caste War where Mayans were fighting against the economic system based on slavery that was enforced by the white mestiza (mixed) population that controlled the majority of the land in the peninsula. Today, this music and dance are an artistic expression that gives cultural identity to the region of the cruzo’ob.
Another fascinating place that we were able to visit is the community of Kantemó, a place with wonderful people and delicious food. This community is best known for the treasure it holds in its jungle; the cave of the hanging serpents. The main attraction is the spectacle that these serpents, known as tropical rat-catchers (senticolis triaspis), offer each afternoon by catching bats in midair while hanging from the walls and ceiling as the bats exit the cave. We also observed other cave-dwelling animals that live in a small body of water in the interior of the cave such as blind eels, shrimp, aquatic mealybugs and the white lady, a species of blind fish. All these creatures are completely without pigmentation and are perfectly adapted to the permanent darkness of the cave. It was also easy to see the historical evidence that the calciferous soil of the peninsula was once under the sea, as there are many marine fossils embedded in the rocky walls and ceiling of this natural cave.
Continuing with our journey, we crossed state borders from Quintana Roo into Yucatan and got a little closer to the city of Merida. While in Yucatan, we visited the city of Izamal, whose ancient name was Izama (dew that falls from the sky). This city is known as the city of three cultures for having evidence of its prehispanic as well as colonial past, mixed with the modernity that it is immersed in today. Here, we were able to explore the streets and interact with the people. We were also able to visit the ex-convent of San Antonio de Padua of the franciscan order which is now an important ceremonial center and pilgrimage site dedicated to the Virgin of the Conception, better known as Our Lady of Izamal. We also got to visit one of the three biggest prehispanic constructions in all of Mesoamerica; the structure called Kinich Kak Moo, a remaining vestige of this important Mayan city that was maintained from the Preclassic (150BC-250AD) through the Early Postclassic (1000-1200 AD).
Farther along in our journey, getting closer to Merida with each step, we reached the community of Tecoh to visit the cave known in Maya as Aktun Tzab Nah, where we were able to enter the Mayan underworld through small passageways, bodies of water that were waist-high and immense galleries that allowed us to admire the splendor of this place. This cave was utilized by the ancient Mayans and today it is still used by the people in the community for tourism (leading groups like ours through the cave interior) and to help preserve some cultural practices such as the Mayan ceremony with prehispanic origins known as Jets Lu’um.
To conclude our orientation of the Yucatan Program, we spent a few days exploring Merida, where we learned about the urban landscape and transportation within the city. The students went on a scavenger hunt to get to know some of the cultural aspects of Yucatan, tried lots of delicious food that is characteristic of Yucatecan gastronomy and located the most important areas of this city that will be home for the next few weeks. Two of these important areas are our school, PICY, and the homes of the Yucatecan host families where the students will live.
